Tuesday 22 September 2009

Abeno - Museum Street - London - 8.5/10

Luckily for me, the Bear had this Monday off work, so we decided to make the most of it, and try out a different kind of Japanese food. A couple of weeks ago we were browsing through an old 1000 Things To Do In London Time Out book, and we happened upon an entry about Abeno. This restaurant specialises in Okonomi-Yaki, which literally means "cook a little of what you like". Surprisingly, this type of Japanese street food isn't that well known, despite a recent surge in Japanese restaurants, and almost every sandwich shop in the capital selling Sushi. We had to give it a go.

The restaurant is situated on a road very close to the British Museum. It's pretty unassuming. A beige exterior with a little side door leads to a beige interior furnished with table after table equipped with it's own hot plate. It's not that busy and we're seated straight away.

We're given the menus, which come in Japanese and English, and a variety of specials and lunch deals are offered as well. The menu explains exactly what constitutes Okonomi-Yaki. They are "variations on a theme, the theme being a base of cabbage, egg and dough with spring onions, ginger and morsels of tempura' batter filled with a choice of filling and cooked in front of you." We order and wait for the theatre to begin.

First off we ordered some Yaki-Gyoza filled with prawns and fresh asparagus. The lovely looking fresh dumplings arrive with our waiter at our table, and he proceeded to fry the bottom of them, and then cleverly steam them underneath a metal dome with a splash of water, right there in front of us. The entire cooking process is part of the experience. The finished product was very tasty and the filling was very fresh. Some of the best dumplings I've had recently. My only complaint would be, why serve five? When you know there are two people at a table, why an odd number, why not serve six, or even four?

Next came the Piri-Piri Edamame, which are cooked soya beans in a chilli sauce. They were OK, although I couldn't really taste the chilli, and the serving was piteously small. I could buy five times that amount in Wagamama or some such place, for the same price - £3.50!

Now for the main event. Our lovely waiter returned to the table with two metal bowls containing our raw Okonomi-Yaki. The Bear went for the Tokyo mix - pork, prawns and squid, and I for the Tofu mix - tofu and sweetcorn. Our waiter mixed each bowl individually until the ingredients were thoroughly mashed together, and then spooned them onto the hot plate so they resembled a thick pancake. He then place the metal dome onto top to let them cook for a while.

Whilst this was taking place we managed to pick the waiters brains on Japanese food, and this restaurant in particular. It turns out that it's been there for 9 years, who knew! They opened another restaurant in Soho a couple of years ago, and have recently opened restaurant in Hampstead under the same name. We also managed to find out that he lived in Japan for four years, which is why he knew so much about it. He was very courteous and not at all put out by our questions.

Once the Okonomi-Yaki was cooked on both sides, he started the next stage - decoration! Each filling has a recommended decoration of different sauces and accompaniments. The Bear's Tokyo Mix was beautifully decorated in a spiral of Japanese Mayonnaise (which has rice vinegar in it making it slightly sweeter than normal), Okonomi-Yaki sauce, which has a close resemblance to our own HP, Powdered Seaweed, and Dried Smoked Fish Flakes. The end product was a complete work of art.

My Tofu Mix is traditionally decorated with Mirin (a type of rice wine), Powdered Seaweed and Dried Smoked Fish Flakes. Both Okonomi-Yaki looked a picture. And the fish flakes kept twitching in the heat of the hot plate. Quite a spectacle. The lovely waiter left us with the various condiments so we could add to it if we wished.

Now for the taste test. You attack the thing with a kind of mini shovel whilst it remains on the hot plate and then eat it with chopsticks, which is enormous fun. It tastes like nothing I have ever tried before. The mix of flavours and sauces is a heady Asian cocktail. The texture is a halfway house between Fritatta and Scrambled Egg. You could imagine eating this on a cold wintry day and feeling warm and dozy. Proper comfort food.

We went for the Super Deluxe version, which was perfect for The Bear, but far too much for me, especially with the starters. We were so full that there wasn't even a fleeting thought about pudding.

The bill came to £41.40 without service (which was excellent) which I think is pretty steep for lunch. But we did have the works in terms of food. No booze though.

The Okonomi-Yaki were worth every penny, so the restaurant gets two thumbs up for that. But a couple of things let it down. The starters were really overpriced for what they were. £3.50 for a small bowl of soya beans is just not on. And £5.50 for five dumplings is taking the piss.

If they sort out the disparity between the price for mains and starters, this place would be a 10/10. But as it is 8.5/10 will have to suffice.

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