Tuesday 11 August 2009

Sitaaray - Dury Lane - London - 5/10

It was a very muggy day, like most of August thus far, and I was trudging through the tourists on Dury Lane to find Sitaaray. When I booked the restaurant I was really looking forward to it. I'm a massive curry fan. But the weather on this particular afternoon made me crave a fruit salad rather than a slap up Indian feast. As ever dedicated to the cause, I soldiered on.


Sitaaray is located on London's Dury Lane, which was heaving with tourists walking too slowly, and generally being a nuisance. So it was surprising to say the least when we walked into the restaurant to be greeted by nothing. Zilch. Not a single diner, nor any staff.


The only thing that saved the first impression of the place, was its unusual decoration. The two storey restaurant is covered ceiling to floor with Bollywood memorabilia. There are lush velvet booths, huge spangly chandeliers, and lots of red and gold. It was this alone that enamored the restaurant initially.

After a few moments a suit-clad gentleman entered the room from the kitchen to greet us. He was very courteous, and if I'm not mistaken, hugely grateful for our custom. We were sat in a booth on the second floor, which was beautiful, but a little snug. My thighs weren't designed to fit through a three inch gap between the table and chair arm, but oh well. Maybe it was a gimmick to encourage moderation.

We went for the two course set lunch menu, which included poppadoms, four grills to start, and then a selection of curries, roti and rice. Suitman asked for our dietary requirements and left us to it.

First the poppadoms came. There were all right. Although there was a distinct lack of lime pickle, which was horribly disappointing. They weren't your traditional round, plate-size poppadoms, but rather the small square ones that normally come in a packet from behind the pub counter.


Whilst tucking in our drinks came. We both went for the Mango Lassi, which was excellent. The thick yoghurty drink was thick with fruit and ice cold. The best I've had in London.

Next the starters, which were four grilled kebabs. My plate included Pudina Fish, grilled in a mint and chilli paste, Crispy Battered Fish flavoured with dill, Chapate Khumb, which is mushrooms grilled in a spicy red paste, and Methi Makkai Kabab, which is a sweetcorn patty cooked on an iron plate. All of the grills were excellent. Especially the mushrooms and the fish flavoured with dill. The presentation was pleasing as well with all the grills placed on a square stainless steel plate. The Bear was happy with his meat alternatives, which included spiced chargrilled chicken.

If I had rated the restaurant after the starters it would have got a much higher mark. Despite the lack of customers, the food so far was expertly cooked, and surprisingly light. The decor is something I've not seen before, and made you feel like you were in a Bollywood movie, with TV screens mounted on the walls playing hits. Think Hard Rock Cafe, but Bollywood.


But unfortunately, the main came, and it didn't live up to the rest of the meal. The Roti was ok, but a little greasy. The Tarka Dal and Matar Paneer were awash with cream. They was more cream than anything else. The Dal especially just had a few sad, black lentils floating like dead flies in a sea of pinky gunk. The one saving grace was the Sag, or spinach to you and me. It was cooked but not slimy, and big broad beans ran through it. There was no spinach left by the end, but quite a lot of everything else.

To recap: poppadoms - OK, mango lassi - yum yum yum, starters - pretty good, mains - bit rubbish.

One thing I will remember about Sitaaray is the loos. My, what a sight! I though I'd entered a 70's brothel. The toilets were tiled in this exquisitely kitch gold, which flowed along the walls, only interrupted by lavish mirrors. I want this toilet in my house!


Sitaaray was disappointing. The atmosphere was non-existent, and although the food started out great, it was downhill after the starter. The bill came to £40 including two courses, water, lassis and service.


I've been to better Indians. I probably won't go back to Sitaaray. But if you like a theme to your meal, then it might be worth a go. Best to go in the evening though, if you want any company.

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