Artisan - Westbury Hotel - Conduit Street - London - 9/10

Artisan at The Westbury Hotel is a very smart marble-clad restaurant tucked away on Conduit Street, just off Regent Street. The interior is elegant, bright and classy, but not so much that I felt like a right pauper walking in there in my Marks and Spencer’s linen trousers. Little old me was made to feel very welcome.

It wasn’t busy, but then on a sunny Sunday afternoon I expect most people nearby were sunning themselves in Green Park with a picnic rather than lining themselves up for a food marathon.

A marathon was exactly what lay in store, and a tasty one at that. Their Sunday menu is £25 for three courses, but Executive Chef Andy Jones had a few little extras up his sleeve.

The meal started with a selection of delicious looking amuse bouche. As a non-meat-eating-fish-eating-pseudo-vegetarian I didn’t partake in the mini chicken liver burger, but my companion (lets call him Slowbear) said they were excellent (I shall take his word for it). The salt and vinegar meringue didn’t do it for me either (far too salty), but again Slowbear couldn’t get enough. The olive-encrusted goat’ cheese stick with white chocolate and basil however, was divine. It dissembled gorgeously in your mouth, as did the tomato and basil milkshake in a shot glass. A good start.

Next was another amuse bouche. Smoked mackerel on a pickled ginger foam. The dish was full of flavour but the tiny morsel of fish was a little on the tough side. As was the bread we were offered. It took all my strength just to break the sad little roll in two.

The starter arrived in a flourish from the waiting staff, with each course delivered on a silver tray with at least two staff in tow – I only wish they had been as attentive with the drinks, which we had to pour ourselves throughout the meal. The starter was delicious. I had carpaccio of wild mushroom, which was citrusy and rich, with a few violet petals as a beautiful and tasty accompaniment. Slowbear had smoked duck with sweet potato puree and cherries. He was silent for a few minutes so I guess it was good. It’s usually a good sign.

Yet another amuse bouche, and this one was the highlight of the whole meal. First a lemon marshmallow which literally oozed into oblivion on the tongue. Followed by an amazing rose water jelly with popping candy. The candy was such a surprise it was one of those moments when you’re transported back to childhood. Where everything is new and exciting. It really struck a nostalgic chord. And lastly an apple mint and ginger mouse, which was so delicately flavoured that it cleansed the palate perfectly for the main course.

Now the main course was excellent. It was simple, flavoursome, and pretty. The brown shrimps and samphire sauce was perfectly seasoned. 10 out of 10. What more can you say?

Slightly elated from what had already passed we paused to take stock. So far a first class experience with only a few niggly issues with hard bread and having to pour our own water. In this good mood we selected our desserts from an impressive list. We plumped for brioche bread and butter pudding and a selection of British cheeses. But before we could wrap our lips round them it was time for another amuse bouche. This time a mini orange crème brulee with dark chocolate caviar. Crème Brulee is perhaps one of my favourite things in the world, so this little wonder was spot on. Shame it wasn’t five times bigger and on the dessert menu!

The puddings came. The bread and butter pudding was pretty average, but the honeycomb ice cream was nice and the candied rhubarb was very tasty – a shame there wasn’t more than a smudge of it on the plate. The cheese was ok. A bit of a small portion, especially as there was a supplement for it.

Finally a coffee and the petit four. Good coffee – although on the expensive side at £5 a cup. The petit four on the other hand were excellent. There was a strawberry milkshake, passion fruit chocolate and fudge. The fudge was to die for.

The bill came with a sort of chocolate tree with five hand-painted chocolates clipped to the metal branches.

The whole lot came to £81 including service (although this didn’t include any wine as work was on the horizon in a few hours time). With wine I expect you could probably add another £40 at least to that.

All in all a lovely experience. The marble surround and art deco chic was perfect for a relaxed Sunday lunch. I can imagine in the evenings with the two large chandeliers and parquet flooring you could be forgiven for thinking you had travelled back in time. The £25 three-course menu was really a 9 or 10-course menu and it more than delivered on flavour and presentation.

If you want a classy place to celebrate or just to pig out then Artisan is well worth a try!