Gastronomic Trip to Suffolk 23rd – 25th May 2009

This bank holiday just gone Slowbear and I went on a last minute food pilgrimage to Suffolk. Having never graced this county with my presence before I thought it only fair that I try as many restaurants, cafes, tea rooms etc as I could in 48 hours. I did my best and have returned to South West London a happier and heavier woman.

Meal 1: Cornforth and Cornforth Café – Eye – Suffolk - 7/10

Having arrived at our bed and breakfast around 2 ‘o’ clock after a long arduous journey through the Dartford tunnel, I was very hungry and starting to flag (the curse of low blood sugar). So before I could do anything else I sought out somewhere to eat in the little sleepy village of Eye.

As luck would have it, I found Cornforth and Cornforth Café. This tiny café is a real gem. A few eclectic tables and chairs are cobbled together is a way that’s meant to look random but I suspect is not, in essentially someone’s front room. You can walk through the kitchen to some table and chairs in a back yard as well. The whole place is really charming and the husband and wife team have really made it feel like you’re being cooked a meal in your own home.

There is a very short menu of four or five dishes and an extensive soft drink and coffee menu. The shortness of the menu is a testament to the freshness of the produce they use. Its written on large portable blackboards in white chalk, which made me suspect that it’s changed on a very regular basis.

Slowbear plumped for the Loin of Pork Chop with Black Pudding and Chestnut Hash, and I went for the Goose Egg Frittata with local Asparagus, Jersey Royals and Feta. We both have a bit of an obsession with elderflower, so we both slurped down an apple and elderflower juice.

The food was very tasty. The loin of pork was “brilliant”. All the dishes are served in round skillets on wooden boards, which suits the overall feel of the place very well.

The goose egg frittata was excellent. The egg was very light and fluffy. The saltiness of the feta was counteracted by the freshness of the asparagus, which blew me away. Never had asparagus like it. You can tell that it’s been picked and cooked within hours.

We were both very tempted to have a piece of cake as well. There was a whole bench covered in homemade cakes that were divided up into very generous slices…but we resisted knowing what was on the agenda later in the evening.

The whole lot came to £15. What a bargain! Massive portions, fresh, local and tasty food, friendly and homely atmosphere. It was a very very good start to the holiday.

Meal 2: Lindsay House Restaurant, Broad Street, Eye, Suffolk - 7/10

After a swift trip to Southwold to play on the amusements and look at the pretty painted beach huts, it was time to eat again.

This time it was at Lindsay House Restaurant in Eye. This restaurant is in a beautiful Georgian doubled fronted house in the middle of town. All of the front rooms have a few tables in them, and the setting is modern but warm, with sparse table settings and a lot of white walls.

The place is busy but we are in a room with only one other table in it, which is a bit difficult for conversation, as I can be a bit loud. I felt a bit self-conscious on occasion but it wasn’t too much of a problem.

There is a very short menu and a huge specials board based on local produce. A good sign. We ordered a half bottle of Piersporter which was good value at £5.95.

We both started with the dressed Cromer crab, which was delicate and full of flavour. Only complaint was the presentation as it came with some sad looking slices of cucumber and a few salad leaves. A bit of homemade bread or toast would have made the dish ten times better.

I decided to splash out on the main course and went for the Gambas from the specials board, and it was well worth it. A plate full to the brim with huge prawns was placed in front of me, and each one was perfectly cooked in garlic and butter. There was a lot of garlic. After fifteen minutes all that was left was a happy pile of shells. The dish came with local veg as well, and although unnecessary, the courgette was delicious. It’s been a long time since I’ve eaten any courgette that actually tasted of anything other than slime, but this really did.

Slowbear went for the Roast Pork Belly, which disappeared rapidly with a big crunch of thick crackling. I’d say he enjoyed it.

To round the evening off we shared a caramelised lemon tart, which was perfect. The crunchy caramelised sugar on top was reminiscent of crème brulee, and counteracted the tartness of the lemon.

The whole lot came to £53.50 without service. Which is very cheap. Makes you wonder why you pay so much for food in London that isn’t as fresh or as well cooked.

If you’re in the area, you should give this place a go.

Meal 3: The Butley Orford Oysterage – Orford – Suffolk - 8/10

After a boozy return to the B&B it was a late start the next day.

After a lovely trip to Framlingham Castle – where I had one of the best cup cakes ever (raspberry ripple) – we set off on a pilgrimage to Orford to eat some Oysters! Yum Yum Yum!

Having done some research before setting off on this little trip, one place stood out above all the rest, so I booked a table for lunch at the Butley Orford Oysterage.

This family run restaurant also boasts a smokery, which smokes both fish and meat that you can buy from a shop joined to the restaurant. The restaurant is simply laid out and buzzing. There isn't a corner left unoccupied and this meant the service was pretty rushed. It certainly felt like a family run business with very little pretention, but a smile never went amiss eh? The tables are made from untreated wood, and the simplicity of the whole place fits with the simplicity of the food.

In no uncertain terms The Butley Orford Oysterage is a fish heaven and there was far too much to choose from so we ended up ordering a mountain. There is an extensive menu and a HUMONGOUS specials board, with all the fresh smoked fish you could ask for.

We didn’t bother with separate starters and main courses and instead ordered a whole range of dishes to come at once. Included in this were a dozen oysters from Butley’s own bed, smoked sardines, smoked prawns, taramasalata and smoked salmon.

The oysters were clean, creamy and fresh, served simply with just lemon (I hate to admit it but I did miss the shallot vinegar). The sardines were quite large and lightly smoked. The taramasalata was gorgeously dark pink and rough in texture, served in a ramekin with little triangles of toast. The stand out dish by far though was the smoked prawns. The shells fell away from the meat, which was tender and succulent.

The table was a mess by the time we left full and happy for £32.20 without service. I would definitely go back. There is still lots to try, from smoked eel to local asparagus and a whole range of fresh fish. It’s only open for lunch during the winter months but opens in the evenings after the second May bank holiday and you definitely need to book in advance.

Meal 4: Riverside Tearoom – Orford Quay – Suffolk - 4/10

As if scoffing a load of seafood wasn’t enough for one lunchtime, we got tempted by an afternoon tea after a stroll along the quay in Orford.

Orford quay is a savage marina with a few brown beach huts housing a fishmonger, a tearoom and the Orford sailing club. Seeing as it had been at least forty-five minutes since our last meal, it was high time we had a little sugar boost and settled on a picnic bench outside the Riverside Tearoom in Orford. Tea for two came to £7.75 and including a pot of your average brand tea and a scone each.

Controversially there was double cream instead or clotted, but it worked for me. The strawberry jam was chunky with fruit and my stomach was stretched to breaking point.

Time to hit the road…

Meal 5: Case Restaurant with Rooms – Assington – Sudbury - Suffolk - 8/10

Now, the Case Restaurant with Rooms is something quite special. It’s a family run restaurant with the father and son at the helm in the kitchen and the lovely Linda front of house. They aim to use local produce wherever they can, even down to their own bread. I was very eager to get eating again!

The restaurant has seven rooms that you can retire to for the night after having your fill in the restaurant.

We arrived around five after a short drive from Orford and were shown to a small but very well appointed room. The room had everything you could possibly need from Egyptian cotton sheets to fresh coffee and mineral water. The shower is very powerful, and we had a much-needed rest after our exploits of the day.

Around 8pm we went to the restaurant where we were greeted and given aperitifs in the conservatory whilst perusing the menu. The menu had five or six starters and main course and there was a long list of fresh fish on a separate specials board.

Our order was taken from the conservatory and we were left to relax until our starters were ready. Although unconventional, this was a civilised way of doing things as there had been blazing sunshine all day and the remaining heat in the conservatory was very pleasant. It really did feel like summer had arrived.

We were taken through to the dining room when our starters were ready. The dining room is lusciously decorated in dark purples and chocolate brown, with portraits of famous singers adorning the walls. There aren’t many tables and the restaurant is pretty intimate, but the atmosphere isn’t too quiet.

I went for the smoked salmon and caper berries, having whetted my appetite at the smokery in the afternoon. I have to say, that this was pretty disappointing. It was literally a few layers of smoked salmon scattered with a few caper berries with three slices of lemon…surely a chunk of lemon would have been easier to handle? I hate to criticise this place because I really fell in love with it. Lets hope I just ordered the wrong starter.

Slowbear on the other hand was over the moon with his starter selection. He went for the miniature beef wellington, which was the size of a digestive biscuit, although much fatter, and surrounded by thick gravy. If you looked at it from a bird’s eye view, it would look like an eye.

The Gasgone Semillon 2005 was flowing as the mains arrived. I got real food envy during this course as Slowbear’s turbot was out of this world. It came with garlic mash and an avocado and tomato salsa. The salsa was a weird accompaniment and didn't really work, but the fish itself made up for it. It could have come served on newspaper and we still would have been impressed.

I had Wytch lemon sole with chips and salad. The sole was also very good and the meat fell of the bones. The chips were chunky and the salad fresh, although there was a little too much red onion. Both mains were very generous.

It was about this time that something strange and quite disgusting started to happen. The table next to us were a family team, with mum and dad and a grown daughter. All fairly innocuous, until the dad started belching and farting! Really loudly! The mother and daughter barley batted an eyelid. To make matters worse they then called the waitress over and blamed the cheese!

Slowbear was determined to say something, and if I hadn’t been so amazed I would have let him. In hindsight I should have. It could have spoilt the evening if it hadn’t been so funny. I don’t know what the staff could have said to them, but really I wish they had said something.

Luckily the belcher left and we could get on with our dessert. I had a strawberry and kiwi Eton mess. It was OK, but I couldn’t taste the kiwi, and by this point I was REALLY full. Slowbear charmed Linda into giving him two puddings and sampled the apricot cream slice and the homemade strawberry roulade. Both went down well.

The next morning we plumped for some scrambled eggs on toast and boiled egg and soldiers. The eggs were orange as you like and the scrambled egg had a sinful amount of butter in it.

The whole lot, dinner, bed, breakfast and booze came to an amazing £137, including service. WHAT A BARGAIN. I have definately fallen in love with this place. I will be back again and again and again.

Verdict:
So, in the space of 48 hours we managed to fit in a gut-busting amount of eating and a fairly hefty amount of sightseeing too. I would thoroughly recommend a trip to Suffolk for any foodie, as there is a plethora of wonderful places to eat from cheap cafes to fine dining. Plus the produce is fresh and local.

The Ceylon Tavern - Lavender Hill - London - 7/10

I’ve never had Sri Lankan food before, but boy will I again! They Ceylon Tavern is a real find. It’s pretty unassuming from the outside, and looks like any other curry house down Lavender Hill. But the inside of the restaurant is luxuriant and something quite special.

From the marble floor to the red patterned wall paper the whole room looks like a colonial drawing room, complete with grandfather clocks and corniced ceilings. We were the first people in the restaurant (we were quite early) which worried me slightly, but I had nothing whatsoever to fear.

Soon the restaurant filled up, and it can only be because the whole place has a certain elegance about it. As does the food.

The very polite staff asked if we had ever eaten Sri Lankan food before, and suggested the Ceylon Tavern buffet menu, which provides a starter and three curries per person, as well as rice and rotti. I plumped for this option, but Slowbear couldn’t resist going a la carte, simply because he was intrigued by the Cockle Pittu (I will explain all later).

With our drinks came some miniature poppadums which were very tasty, but a little oily. I had a glass of the house white which was serviceable and Slowbear had a bottle of Ceylon Pride (lager) which was tasty and not too gassy for a curry.

The starters came and although the presentation was average they made up for it in flavour. Slowbear had devilled pork which to all intents and purposes could take your head off. I had vegetable patties which were equally as hot and beautifully spiced, but the pastry was a little dry.

Next the main course and this was a real triumph. The buffet menu came with a choice of meat dish – I went with King Fish Curry – and two vegetable curries. The king Fish curry was very good. It came in a rasam style sauce which was again very hot. The fish was delicate but a little over done for my tastes, although it wasn’t too tough. The okra curry was full to the brim with coconut milk and chili and the okra wasn’t too slimy. The stand out dish was the Mysoor Purrapu, which is a lentil dish similar to Tarka Dal, but with a hint of mustard. This was exquisite and went particularly well with the handmade rotti.

Slowbear’s main course was something I’ve never tried before, and it didn’t disappoint. Cockle Pittu is a sort of biryani, served with King Fish curry, omelette and rice and wheat flour cooked with cockles, onions and chilli and grated coconut. It was a revelation. I would go back to the Ceylon Tavern just for this dish.

Although we ordered a lot of dishes, the portions of each one were perfect for two people and we cleaned our plates full but not stuffed.

We then ordered a dessert, which is something I don’t really do in curry houses for fear of those dreadful picture dessert menus with chocolate bombs and lemon sorbet served in an actual lemon. But there was no such thing here. We ordered a traditional vattappam which is very similar in texture to crème caramel but with cardamom, cinnamon and cashew nuts. It was delicious. I couldn’t get enough. I wish we had ordered two!

If you like spicy food and want to try something a little different to your usual curry, then this is the place for you. All the food is pretty hot, but for a chili lover for me this is a bonus rather than a flaw.

The service throughout the meal was attentive and helpful but not too in-your-face. The entire meal came to £50 including service and two beers and two glasses of wine, which in my opinion is a bargain.

I will certainly be back to The Ceylon Tavern and in fact can see it becoming a regular haunt.

Artisan - Westbury Hotel - Conduit Street - London - 9/10

Artisan at The Westbury Hotel is a very smart marble-clad restaurant tucked away on Conduit Street, just off Regent Street. The interior is elegant, bright and classy, but not so much that I felt like a right pauper walking in there in my Marks and Spencer’s linen trousers. Little old me was made to feel very welcome.

It wasn’t busy, but then on a sunny Sunday afternoon I expect most people nearby were sunning themselves in Green Park with a picnic rather than lining themselves up for a food marathon.

A marathon was exactly what lay in store, and a tasty one at that. Their Sunday menu is £25 for three courses, but Executive Chef Andy Jones had a few little extras up his sleeve.

The meal started with a selection of delicious looking amuse bouche. As a non-meat-eating-fish-eating-pseudo-vegetarian I didn’t partake in the mini chicken liver burger, but my companion (lets call him Slowbear) said they were excellent (I shall take his word for it). The salt and vinegar meringue didn’t do it for me either (far too salty), but again Slowbear couldn’t get enough. The olive-encrusted goat’ cheese stick with white chocolate and basil however, was divine. It dissembled gorgeously in your mouth, as did the tomato and basil milkshake in a shot glass. A good start.

Next was another amuse bouche. Smoked mackerel on a pickled ginger foam. The dish was full of flavour but the tiny morsel of fish was a little on the tough side. As was the bread we were offered. It took all my strength just to break the sad little roll in two.

The starter arrived in a flourish from the waiting staff, with each course delivered on a silver tray with at least two staff in tow – I only wish they had been as attentive with the drinks, which we had to pour ourselves throughout the meal. The starter was delicious. I had carpaccio of wild mushroom, which was citrusy and rich, with a few violet petals as a beautiful and tasty accompaniment. Slowbear had smoked duck with sweet potato puree and cherries. He was silent for a few minutes so I guess it was good. It’s usually a good sign.

Yet another amuse bouche, and this one was the highlight of the whole meal. First a lemon marshmallow which literally oozed into oblivion on the tongue. Followed by an amazing rose water jelly with popping candy. The candy was such a surprise it was one of those moments when you’re transported back to childhood. Where everything is new and exciting. It really struck a nostalgic chord. And lastly an apple mint and ginger mouse, which was so delicately flavoured that it cleansed the palate perfectly for the main course.

Now the main course was excellent. It was simple, flavoursome, and pretty. The brown shrimps and samphire sauce was perfectly seasoned. 10 out of 10. What more can you say?

Slightly elated from what had already passed we paused to take stock. So far a first class experience with only a few niggly issues with hard bread and having to pour our own water. In this good mood we selected our desserts from an impressive list. We plumped for brioche bread and butter pudding and a selection of British cheeses. But before we could wrap our lips round them it was time for another amuse bouche. This time a mini orange crème brulee with dark chocolate caviar. Crème Brulee is perhaps one of my favourite things in the world, so this little wonder was spot on. Shame it wasn’t five times bigger and on the dessert menu!

The puddings came. The bread and butter pudding was pretty average, but the honeycomb ice cream was nice and the candied rhubarb was very tasty – a shame there wasn’t more than a smudge of it on the plate. The cheese was ok. A bit of a small portion, especially as there was a supplement for it.

Finally a coffee and the petit four. Good coffee – although on the expensive side at £5 a cup. The petit four on the other hand were excellent. There was a strawberry milkshake, passion fruit chocolate and fudge. The fudge was to die for.

The bill came with a sort of chocolate tree with five hand-painted chocolates clipped to the metal branches.

The whole lot came to £81 including service (although this didn’t include any wine as work was on the horizon in a few hours time). With wine I expect you could probably add another £40 at least to that.

All in all a lovely experience. The marble surround and art deco chic was perfect for a relaxed Sunday lunch. I can imagine in the evenings with the two large chandeliers and parquet flooring you could be forgiven for thinking you had travelled back in time. The £25 three-course menu was really a 9 or 10-course menu and it more than delivered on flavour and presentation.

If you want a classy place to celebrate or just to pig out then Artisan is well worth a try!